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Pruning Neomarica (Apostle Plant)

TheGardenLady received this question about the Neomarica plant.

Should I prune back my two Neomarica? They have been outside all summer and are big and green now. I live in northern NJ and will bring them indoors in the next week (mild fall so far). I have had them for several years and they bloom dependably each spring.

I love the sweet flowers I get on my Neomarica iris.  Apostle Plant, Apostle’s Plant or 12 Apostles are some of the common names for the Neomarica iris. These names were given because it is believed that this iris needs 12 leaves, like Jesus had 12 Apostles,  before it will bloom. Besides Apostle Plant it is called the Walking Iris. This name was apparently given because of the way the flowers on the stalk bend away from the main plant and when grown in the garden the new plantlets root away from the main plant.  It is also called the One Day Iris because the flowers do not last more than 18 hrs. In fact the life of the flower can be so brief that sometimes owners miss seeing the flowers open. And it is sometimes called the Poor Man’s Orchid  (a name used on some other irises as well) because of its darling flower. The Neomarica iris is native to Brazil.

People grow the plant for its lovely leaves as well as the flowers. Outdoor blooms of walking iris plants can be removed once flowering has stopped if you don’t want new plants to take root in the garden. You can always prune DEAD leaves and DEAD stems from the iris. Fall is the time of year that you CAN prune out the OLD flower stalks or stems, not the leaves.

If you want smaller plants, propagate in the spring by division of offsets.

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Double Knockout Roses

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Rose Shy? Start With a Knock Out Rose

The rose is one of the most abundant garden bloomers, but also a bit intimidating to some inexperienced gardeners. Whether it’s the prolific blooms, childhood memories of mothers and grandmothers with perfect rose gardens, or the thorns, some gardeners sadly shy away from rose bushes.

Though fear of the rose is unfounded, starting with a Knockout Rose is a great way to gain confidence in successful rose gardening, or gardening in general, for that matter. The Knockout Roses have been bred to resist most diseases, grow and bloom with less watering and reward the gardener with less maintenance than most shrub roses. There’s a reason that Knock Outs became the best-selling series of roses in the United States in just over a dozen years.

History of Knockout Roses

Knockout Roses are the result of the lifetime efforts of Wisconsin breeder William Radler, who bought his first rose at age 9 years old. Radler introduced the first of the Knock Outs, the original red, in 2000. The rose was recognized that year as an All America Rose Selection winner. His 2007 Rainbow Knock Out also was chosen for the prestigious award. Radler crosses roses with one another, selects the best rose from the bunch, then crosses them again. As a result, he has produced shrub roses that are winter hardy despite their tolerance for less water. They’re also more resistant to disease than most shrub roses and can self-clean, which means gardeners don’t have to deadhead, or remove spent flowers during the summer to encourage further blooming.

In addition, Radler has bred some stunning beauties, including the Double Knockout Roses, which offer all the benefits of the series, but have larger, fuller blooms. All Knock Out Roses bloom every 5 to 6 weeks from early spring until fall’s first frost, with no deadheading.

Caring for Knockout Roses

Once you’ve planted your Knock Out Rose in a sunny spot and given it enough water to help the roots get established, sit back and enjoy the blooms. You can encourage better blooming with a dose of rose fertilizer after each blooming period from spring through summer. Just follow the fertilizer package directions. Other than that, you only need to prune Knock Out roses for shape every year in late winter or early spring just before the leaves begin to form if you want to control their size or shape. Look for dead, damaged and diseased canes.

As the shrub matures, you can cut older canes back by up to a third of their length to help keep the bush healthy. And prune a little heavier if you’ve planted several Knock Out Roses together to form a hedge. Your Knock Out Roses should be able to take heavy pruning, and there is no need to be a rose-pruning expert.

Although Knock Out Roses are bred to resist diseases, their leaves can turn slightly yellow or spot some when the weather is particularly hot, humid and wet. The good news is that the problem will pass as soon as the weather improves, so gardeners should not worry or feel they need to apply a fungicide. Keeping the rose pruned just enough so that air can circulate inside and around the shrub can help prevent the problem when muggy weather hits.

Aptly Named

The Knock Out Rose series is aptly named mostly for the long-lasting color Radler has achieved in his breeding. The Sunny Knock Out Rose also produces sweet fragrance in its bright yellow blooms. But the shrubs’ hardiness in zones 5 through 10, along with overall toughness in various weather conditions, have made the Knock Out Roses wildly popular in the United States and around the world.

Knock Outs are a perfect, long-blooming addition to any rose garden, but they’re almost too beautiful to be mixed in among their own kind. The beginning gardener or new homeowner can choose Knock Out Rose shrubs and trees as the centerpiece of a landscape to serve as colorful hedges or specimen plants along sunny walls. Select a low-lying evergreen shrub to plant near the Knock Out Rose for year-round green in your garden, and a few low-growing ornamentals to complement the stunning color or the rose’s blooms above. Verbena, dianthus, or a sedum groundcover often look terrific under specimen Knock Out roses.

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When Artificial Grass Is The Best Option

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In 1966 the Astros and Dodgers played the first baseball game on an artificial surface, officially named AstroTurf, the first incarnation of artificial grass. Since then its use has moved from sports grounds to gardens worldwide, seen as a way of having long lasting, low maintenance green grass in any climate. Here are two of the most popular uses of artificial grass over the past decade:

1. Areas of Drought

California has been facing the longest drought in its history – 4 years with no rain in some parts, forcing residents to water their gardens weekly just to keep the grass in their gardens alive, and with the average patch of American grass requiring 45,000 litres of water a year, this has led to water restrictions across California and penalties for misuse.

So what’s the solution to a garden full of dead grass?

Native plants

Some have suggested gardens should be covered by native plants that are accustomed to the landscape and require very little water to survive – namely cactus. The main advantage for this landscape is no water and no maintenance.

Unfortunately native plants have their downsides – if you want to play football with your kids, let your dog roam around or even just lay down in your own garden you will struggle with a garden covered in desert plants, particularly cactus.

Artificial Grass

Whilst not native to the landscape but boasting the same advantages, artificial grass is the best alternative for many in California. For a start well-made artificial grass is perfectly safe for kids, dogs and other pets.

Artificial grass also doesn’t need water or fertiliser which means celebrities in LA can avoid the PR shame of having their extensive gardens seen hogging water, whilst non celebs can cut back on the hiking water costs and maintain an element of the American dream – green grass.

2. For Those Without The Time, Effort Or Ability To Care To Their Lawns

A beautiful lawn needs to be carefully nurtured. In the summer lawns need to be regularly mowed and watered with fertilizing in spring and autumn – that requires time, effort and ability that many don’t have. Caring for your grass also requires tools including a lawnmower, strimmer, fertiliser and a hose just so the grass stays alive.

For those of us who don’t have the time, the effort or the ability to maintain grass there is a solution – artificial grass. Modern artificial grass looks and feels more natural than ever before and importantly this near perfect look takes decades to change – no mowing, no watering and no fertilizing as artificial grass maintenance is quick and easy in only a few steps.

If you have any questions or would like any more information about artificial grass, head over to www.nearlygrass.co.uk and we’ll be happy to help.

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The time to plant or replant perennials

TheGardenLady received this question about planting and transplanting perennials, in particular hostas:

I live in southern Alberta. Can I move perennial plants now (sept 18)? I would also like to move some hostas.

The Fall is the best time to plant or transplant many perennials. You can plant or transplant plants up to 6 weeks before the first killing frost is expected in your area. Generally the Fall is the best time to transplant trees, shrubs and perennials and you have the added bonus of being able to buy plants on sale at this time of year. A Fall planting guide for Canada is this.

Hostas are forgiving plants and can be planted any time of the year when the ground is not frozen. Most books say that the best time to plant or replant Hostas is in the spring as soon as the soil is workable. This spring planting is for your benefit. Hostas like moisture, so if you plant or transplant them in the spring you have nature doing the watering for you. However, that being said, in Alberta, Canada you can plant Hostas now if the ground is still workable and if you are not getting a frost for 6 weeks – Hostas and other perennials need that time for the roots to get established. Just be sure that you plant your hostas in well draining soil where there is a lot of moisture so that the roots do not dry out.

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Avocado Tree Problems

TheGardenLady received this question from Larry about his avocado tree:

My tree is 7 years old and is now bearing fruit. There are many avocados that are turning black and are falling off. We’re in California near the coast in Arroyo Grande. I water my tree twice a week. Most of the fruit looks great, but I’m concerned about the black ones that are dying?

Fruit trees in general often have problems that may be beyond a home owner’s ability to manage.  Often fruit trees need to be sprayed and some of the sprays are toxic.  One horticulturist I know does not believe home owners should even waste their time raising fruit trees in the home garden and should leave this job to the professionals. That being said and not seeing your avocado problem, I am guessing that your tree has a fungus. I am not saying this because I know for certain, but “Fungus is the most serious avocado disease in California.” Here is a chart of some of the problems avocados can get.  Since that is my educated guess, it is still a guess so I would not want to diagnose any problem without seeing your tree or its fruit. Read this:

“Fungus thrives in excess soil moisture. Over‐irrigation and poor drainage can by your problem because you are growing the plant in a pot. The fungus may attack trees of any size or age. Your plant may have an absence of feeder roots that prevents moisture uptake so soil under diseased trees stays wet.”

What I suggest is that you go online or call the California Avocado Comm or (949) 341-1955 from the hours of 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m to see if they will diagnose the problem and recommend how to treat your tree.

Or take a good sized sample of your avocado fruit to your local Master Gardener office and ask them for their diagnosis and recommended treatment. Each California county has a Master Gardener office.  One such county has this site. Visits to these sites are usually free.